restoration basics
When is an old house not worth saving?
I know this is probably a loaded question, but at some point as preservationists we have to admit that we cannot save everything. And for those opposed to preservation who make the comment that “you cannot save everything,”– Don’t worry, we won’t. Far far too much is already lost.
But looking at the cold hard fact that yes, we must tear down some of our buildings at some point I grapple with the question of at what point is a building not worth saving anymore? This is a very hard line to draw–it certainly is not black and white.
Is it when the building is literally falling down in a heap of materials?
an example of a dwelling that is literally falling apart and probably too far gone for any type of rescue |
Or when it has been so altered physically and functionally that it’s historic integrity has been completely compromised?
this house does not look as it would have originally been built with many severe alterations including replacement windows, enclosed porches, and changes in fenestration patterns. |
Or perhaps the building or house is a run-of-the-mill house with no distinctive or outstanding stylistic elements or historic significance?
I think the demolition of an old building can be warranted for all of these above reasons. It is certainly true many times that historically significant and architecturally outstanding buildings are sadly demolished. But the same is true for architecturally boring and standard buildings with no meaningful historical narrative or important connection of which we would want to preserve for the future. I’m not so sure we need to save old buildings that don’t warrant preservation for a good reason. We can be focusing our energy on other important causes in our field.
Of course there are always exceptions to my opinions stated above. For some properties there may be a personal connection to a family and therefore that family has an interest in preserving it for their own sense of history. That is a decision that should be left up to the family.
Also, common house types that are found in historic districts may contribute to the district’s significance as a whole, and therefore should be preserved as a whole. They may not be all that significant on their own but are important in defining character for a particular town and it’s historic streetscape.
So, what do you think? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Window Types for Historic Houses
Thank you all for the well wishes and congratulations on the arrival of our twin girls. We are all hanging in there and adjusting to life with these sweet babies. Sleep is certainly a luxury sometimes hard to come by and our days are a never-ending cycle of nursing, changing diapers, laundry and baby chores. Thank goodness I have family to help out!
Now on to the real post: I’m warning you now, I may go on a *bit* of a rant here when it comes to windows in historic houses. As you all probably know, I am VERY partial to retaining original windows not just because it preserves the original fabric and historic integrity of the property, but also for practical, sustainable, functional and economic reasons.
But before I get too much into why old houses need to retain their original windows (perhaps I’ll save it for the next post) , I’d like to start by highlighting some common types of original historic windows and the various ways that a lot of homeowners end up replacing them. Sometimes when an older home is purchased the owner may find the original windows were already replaced, and they may have the task of choosing new ones that best fit the historic character of the home.
Here are some various types you may see on older or historic buildings:
1. Double hung, wooden, 6/6 sash
Beaufort, NC |
Chowan County, NC |
2. Double hung, wooden, 2/2 sash
Midway, KY |
Perquimans County, NC |
3. Double hung, wooden 1/1 sash
4. Double hung, wooden 4/4 sash
Add caption |
5. Double hung, 9/9 sash
Andrews-Moore House, Franklin County, NC |
Window from Concord United Methodist Church, ca. 1928, McDowell County, NC |
7. Fixed windows
Ernest Swarts House, Guilford County, NC |
Interior of Ernest Swarts House, Guilford County, NC |
8. Aluminum awning or “hopper” style windows (typically found on mid-century buildings)
9. Decorative, leaded glass, or stained glass windows (often fixed)
Woodford County, KY |
10. Casement windows, wood or metal
Durham County, NC |
Durham County, NC |
This is just a small sampling of various types of windows found on historic buildings. Many more types exist not shown here that you may be familiar with or have seen before. For example, some houses have “cottage style” double-hung wood sash windows, with a six-over-one sash profile.
What window types do you have in your historic house? Or perhaps you may have a type not shown here that is common to your region?
Roofing Options for Historic Buildings
Have you thought much about the choice of roofing for your historic house or building? When it comes time for a new roof, the choice of style or material can make a huge impact on the look of your property.
My first and foremost preference for historic buildings would be if the property happens to retain its original roof, repair it in-kind rather than replacing. Most of the time older roofs can be repaired, unlike asphalt shingle which often must be replaced.
1. Standing Seam Metal
Standing Seam metal is a very durable option for many historic buildings and is on the more affordable side of the range of roofing options. It looks great on farmhouses and agricultural buildings especially. It can be repaired instead of having to be replaced in whole, and should last about 100 years or more if taken care of.
2. Slate
Slate is a very attractive option for historic buildings as long as it is appropriate for the style of the building. It can be costly, but will last for hundreds of years if well maintained and repaired as needed.
3. Terra Cotta Tile
Like slate, Terra Cotta Tile is also extremely durable and will last for hundreds of years if maintained well and repaired in-kind as needed. Most terra cotta roofing has copper trim, wells, gutters, and downspouts to fill gaps and control water flow. Terra Cotta tile is a beautiful option well suited to Spanish, Mediterranean or Mission Revival style buildings and will make a bold impact upon the look of a property.
4. Copper
A copper roof is certainly luxurious and expensive, but has a patina that only gets better with age and can last for hundreds of years if repaired and maintained. Copper can grow thin and suffer from holes due to water damage in spots such as gutters, but many times the holes can be filled or patched with new copper. I especially like the use of copper for accents such as dormer windows, cupolas, and turrets.
5. Wood Shingle
Historically wood shingle roofing is perhaps the most popular early choice of roofing for our Colonial settlers. It works well on older Colonial and Georgian style houses and can last surprisingly longer than you would think, especially if the material used is a wood that is water resistant.
6. Green Roof, anyone?
A Green roof would work well if the roof is flat, especially if there is a bit of a parapet to conceal and contain the vegetation grown on the roof. Buildings suited to this are often civic or commercial buildings located downtown, or Victorian or early-twentieth century storefronts buildings. Occasionally modernist houses possess flat roofs that could possibly be converted into a green roof.
7. Architectural Shingle
Finally, an architectural shingle roof is a nice option that mimics the look of a more expensive slate or tile roof, but is much more affordable for the every day American. It is certainly a step up from the usual asphalt shingle roof and much more appropriate for historic buildings.
Historic House Winter Upkeep 101
For those of us that live in old houses, performing basic maintenance and upkeep can prevent potentially more serious problems and keep your home running efficiently. During the winter, energy efficiency and proper maintenance is especially important with sensitivity to its historic character-defining features.
Below are some tips for winter upkeep in your historic house:
1. If you must add insulation, add it to the attic and the basement, where most of the house’s heat escapes. (Adding blown-in insulation to walls can cause problems in the long run for historic houses).
2. Have your furnace system serviced regularly to make sure it is working efficiently. Change your furnace filters. Bleed radiators and clean forced-air registers.
3. Install a programmable thermostat to save on heating costs when you are not home.
4. Insulate pipes and duct work.
5. Weatherstrip and caulk windows to prevent any air leaks. Repair windows that are not functioning or closing properly. Make sure they are locked tight.
6. Close fireplace flues or dampers when not in use.
7. If windows are proving to be a problem in heat loss, consider adding energy efficient storm windows, which can be just as effective as replacing with new window sashes. Additionally, you can receive a $1,500 tax credit.
8. Use heavy drapes or shutters to keep additional heat from escaping from your windows.
9. Inspect your doors for gaps where air can escape, and seal or fill any holes/gaps.
10. Use a roof rake to remove snow and ice from your roof.
11. Consider getting an energy audit.
Hopefully these tips are helpful to you! Remember, always retain first, then repair, and if you must replace, replace in-kind. Stay warm, friends!